Vair, the fur of the squirrel, white on the belly and grey on the back, was particularly popular through most of the century and can be seen in many illuminated manuscript illustrations, where it is shown as a white and blue-grey softly striped or checkered pattern lining cloaks and other outer garments the white belly fur with the merest edging of grey was called miniver.
įur was mostly worn as an inner lining for warmth inventories from Burgundian villages show that even there a fur-lined coat (rabbit, or the more expensive cat) was one of the most common garments. Vincent altarpiece in Catalonia is reddish-brown on one side and plaid on the other, and remains of plaid and checkered wool fabrics dating to the 14th century have also been discovered in London. Sometimes just the hose would be different colours on each leg.Ĭheckered and plaid fabrics were occasionally seen a parti-coloured cotehardie depicted on the St. Ī fashion for mi-parti or parti-coloured garments made of two contrasting fabrics, one on each side, arose for men in mid-century, and was especially popular at the English court. Fashionable Italian silks of this period featured repeating patterns of roundels and animals, deriving from Ottoman silk-weaving centres in Bursa, and ultimately from Yuan Dynasty China via the Silk Road. The well-off could afford woven brocades from Italy or even further afield. In Northern Europe, silk was an imported and very expensive luxury. Edward III established an embroidery workshop in the Tower of London, which presumably produced the robes he and his Queen wore in 1351 of red velvet "embroidered with clouds of silver and eagles of pearl and gold, under each alternate cloud an eagle of pearl, and under each of the other clouds a golden eagle, every eagle having in its beak a Garter with the motto hony soyt qui mal y pense embroidered thereon." Embroidery in wool, and silk or gold thread for the rich were used for decoration. Woodblock printing of cloth was known throughout the century, and was probably fairly common by the end this is hard to assess as artists tended to avoid trying to depict patterned cloth due to the difficulty of doing so. From an English psalter, 1380–85 14th-century Italian silk damasks Mary de Bohun wears an ermine-lined mantle tied with red strings. Clothes were very expensive, and employees, even high-ranking officials, were usually supplied with, typically, one outfit per year, as part of their remuneration.
Trade in textiles continued to grow throughout the century and formed an important part of the economy for many areas from England to Italy. This century saw the beginnings of the Little Ice Age, and glazing was rare, even for the rich (most houses just had wooden shutters for the winter). Wool was the most important material for clothing, due to its numerous favourable qualities, such as the ability to take dye and its being a good insulator. St John the Baptist wears his iconographical clothes, but the sainted English kings Edward the Confessor and Edmund the Martyr are in contemporary royal dress. Fabrics and furs The young Richard II of England, kneeling, wears a houppelande of silk brocade with the badge of his livery. In the course of the century the length of male hemlines progressively reduced, and by the end of the century it was fashionable for men to omit the long loose over-garment of previous centuries (whether called tunic, kirtle, or other names) altogether, putting the emphasis on a tailored top that fell a little below the waist-a silhouette that is still reflected in men's costume today. Also, the use of lacing and buttons allowed a more snug fit to clothing. The draped garments and straight seams of previous centuries were replaced by curved seams and the beginnings of tailoring, which allowed clothing to more closely fit the human form. Costume historian James Laver suggests that the mid-14th century marks the emergence of recognizable " fashion" in clothing, in which Fernand Braudel concurs.
The lady wears a blue cloak lined in vair, or squirrel, furįashion in fourteenth-century Europe was marked by the beginning of a period of experimentation with different forms of clothing. In the lower panel, the man is dressed as a pilgrim on the Way of St James with the requisite staff, scrip or shoulder bag, and cockle shells on his hat.
Costumes in the period 1300–1400 Clothing of the first half of the 14th century is depicted in the Codex Manesse.
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